Monday, July 20, 2009

Birthday Wishes

My friend Samantha and I were getting ready for our own birthday party when I got a phone call from Stuart Farrow, a Rotarian from the King William’s Town club and a member of parliament in South Africa. The evening before I had made a short presentation at the Rotary Club and had mentioned my research on HIV and AIDS treatment and care. Stuart explained that the following day was Nelson Mandela’s birthday, and so South Africans across the country were spending 67 (the number of years he has served South Africa and the world) minutes doing community service. Stuart was heading to an HIV and AIDS clinic in one of the townships, and invited me to go along.
Of course I jumped at the chance and so found myself amongst the singing and dancing at New Haven Wellness Center. Stuart and his fellow party members, from the Democratic Alliance, had brought 67 kilograms of food donations for the clinic, which has about 40 beds for palliative care, plus feeding, counseling and support groups programs.
The clinic, which has a lovely homey feel, is run by volunteers. Think about that – think about caring for over 40 terminally ill patients, feeding hundreds of children, providing counseling to people facing stigma and denial, going out and visiting sick people in their homes… all voluntarily. UNAIDS estimates 90 percent of AIDS care in Africa is done by volunteers and family members – who are almost exclusively poor women. Why? Because they are the ones that are there, who care, who are committed to helping their loved ones and fellow community members. In many cases there is no one else willing to help. The support they receive from government is minimal. The need is exponential.
As I danced with the children and chatted with the nurses, I thought it was a perfect way to recognize Mandela’s birthday. After all it is these people, in the communities, that are nurturing his vision of a free and just South Africa.


As many of you may know, Wednesday is my birthday. Once again, I’d like to humbly ask that instead o f gifts or cards, those of you who wish to celebrate with me please make a donation to the organization that represents my own little vision of a better world – Emmanuel Center. You can donate online here

Wednesday, July 8, 2009

Miraculous South Africa

Islamango means miracle in Zulu, and its a very appropriate name for the wetlands park I visited this weekend. But let me start at the beginning of my adventure, in a rental car with two other friendly interns also determined to see the best of South Africa during their time here. We headed along the coast, North of Durban for about three hours before we reached Dave's Backpackers' hostel, a backpackers hostel on the edge of Hluhluwe Game Reserve.

A blind dalmatian greeted us with a half hearted bark, and the only creature at reception was a tiny tabby cat curled up under the light. However, a beaded curtain swung back, revealing the kitchen where boleworst (South African susage) was sizzling, giving off a slightly sour but still tempting smell, and Dave emerged.

Dave is a rugged Afrikaner with the name of his hostel tattooed on his chest. When I mentioned he therefore must be very committed to his business, he broke into a soliloquy on how the hostel was like his wife.... she was good to him if he was good to her, and they only fought when money was tight.

Soon we were ushered into our dorm room. The door was off its bottom hinges, and there was no hot water, but the beds were comfy and the place was clean.We chowed down on the boleworst Dave had been cooking and threw back a beer, before heading to bed, planning an early rise to get to the game park.

The morning light revealed that Dave's place really was a gem in the rough. The rolling hills of acia trees and cacti sparkled in the early morning sun. We helped ourselves to coffee and toast and then piled back into our rental car and headed for the game park.
Now I've been on numerous safaris, but I never get tired to gazing at giraffe picking the leaves off an acia tree, or watching the slow way elephants lumbar through the forest, simply crushing or breaking anything in their way. We saw buffalo and zebras, buck and rhinos. Before we knew it, the sun was setting and we headed back to Dave's hostel.

The hostel had the feeling of a friendly neighbourhood and the various guests (including a Dutch scuba diver, a Swiss actor, two middle aged ladies from South Africa and Australia, an eccentric Swede, and British business man) were happy to chat, swap stories and advise on future travel plans. I soon found myself in good company at the campfire, under the African stars, with a glass of wine in my hand - and perfectly content.

The next day things only got better. The town of St. Lucia is a picturesque beach town, with outdoor patios and palm trees. The Islamango estuary that makes up the park is an UNESCO world hertitage site and boast some of the most varied species of birds and plant life, as well as elephants, leopards, Buffalo, hippos and crocs. We went on a fabulous boat tour, where we saw hippos and crocs close up, but the highlight of the day was when we headed down to the estuary beach. After playing in the Indian Ocean, we sat down on the boardwalk from where we could see - all in one view - the sun setting, the moon rising, the ocean waves, the mirrored surface of the estuary, a few crocodiles, and a pod of hippos playing in the water.

It was a miraculous weekend!

Wednesday, July 1, 2009

Champaign Skies

Apparently Durban is experiencing a cold spell, but right now the sun is shining through my window and warming me quite nicely. After all it is 23 degrees – an average summer temperature in Canada or the UK.
I’m sitting on the couch having devoured a whole pineapple. I’m still reveling in all the South African treats I’ve miss since I lived her over 10 years ago – fresh tropical fruit, double decked Cadbury bars, muesli rusks, litchi juice….. the list goes on.
From where I’m sitting I see out the two French doors of my cottage, over the tops of the trpocial trees and then just catch a glimpse of the ocean. The ski is perfect cloudless blue. In the evenings it turns a pale pinky yellow that one of my colleagues told me is called ‘Champaign ski.’
I’ve started work at HEARD and am already happily up to my eyeballs in readings about HIV and care, and helping the communications department with websites and other projects. The office is a busy place, with about 30 researchers working on projects ranging from how to improve services for children orphaned by AIDS, to how to increase the capacity of health systems to better address AIDS care and treatment needs.
I’ve also had a good dose of South Africa culture. On Saturday I was invited to the ultimate South African event – a brai to watch the rugby game. We munched on yummy bratwurst rolls and cheered on the South African Springboks who won just in the nick of time.
Now its mid week and I’m experiencing my first ‘real’ work week in eight months (student life does not count as ‘real work’ as week days and weekends blur into one). I’m actually enjoying being busy and useful at the same time as exploring this lovely country. This weekend I’m off to iSlmangaliso Wetlands Park, so stayed tuned incase I have any adventures with hippos and crocodiles.
Peace, x.